MAC and Frédéric Fekkai for Proenza Schouler Fall 2009

model: Jourdan Dunn

A cool girl’s dream in bold shapes and fabric mixes arranged with faux-ergonomic ardor. By day, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, the designers behind the Proenza Schouler collection, infused practicality with considerable edge, starting with great outerwear in mixes of tweeds and twills piled on over low-slung skirts or boyish shorts — a look the designers love — and thick cabled tights. Style.com puts it this way, "Modern, sexy, and utterly cool ... jolted the fashion flock out of its recession fatigue tonight".

The dresses? Well, the designers proved that a sheath need be neither dull nor proper when worked in deep-toned and black devoré velvets for a sense of lovely decay. A perfect dark victory for girls who want to dress up without looking fussy.

Proenza Schouler wanted their models to look as if they were too cool to really care about a perfectly lined eye or a crafted, colored lip. So keys for hair and makeup set about creating a grunge look reminiscent of Seattle in the early Nineties.

Diane Kendal, working for MAC Cosmetics, used greasy smudges of brown and gray on lids and just below the eye, a groomed brow, a touch of vivid pink crème blush on cheeks and neutral lips to craft a worn-in makeup look. “The boys wanted a sense of easiness and confidence and didn’t want [the models] to appear all that concerned about hair and makeup, just interested in wearing glamorous clothes.”

Didier Malige, working for Frédéric Fekkai, created a messy, textured mane that was pulled back into low ponytails using products such as Fekkai Coiff Oceanic Tousled Wave Spray and Fekkai Sheer Hold Spray.

source: wwd, style.com